Iceland: Week 26

Yesterday I went on a long walk through Reykjavík, from one side of the peninsula to the other, through the wooded area of Öskjuhlíð and along the thin walking path between the ocean and the airport. I needed sunshine, air, and movement. It was the last day, of the first month, of a new year that has been marked by turbulence and uncertainty. Full moon tonight, so at least the celestial bodies are still reliable and trustworthy. At rock bottom, we can count on that.


I went to two separate talks about Greenland this week, one of them hosted by the Institute of International Affairs and the other by the Political Science Association. The latter included Karsten Peter Jensen, Head of Representation for Greenland in Reykjavík, whom I saw speak last week at the protest. I learned that his title can not be “ambassador” since Denmark retains control of foreign policy for Greenland.

Each of the talks was interesting, highlighting the absurdity of Tump’s threats, the lack of Chinese presence or investment in Greenland, and the interests and desires of the Greenlandic people. But they also both lacked any additional information about the true intentions of the American administration or the elements that might be part of a “framework of a deal” that supposedly emerged at Davos. We are still at a stage of speculation.

The first talk did engage in motivational theories, drawing a connection between Trump’s aggression and the long-standing interest by Elon Musk of having a SpaceX presence in Greenland. I don’t know. I hate Elon more than most, and have been tracking the massive corruption throughout Trump’s second term closely, but I’m not convinced that Trump’s actions towards Greenland can be explained so rationally. Increasingly, I think we have to move beyond logic in analyzing him — fewer foreign policy experts, more psychologists and therapists trained in narcissistic and abusive relationships. There are things he does for corruption, and there are things he does purely for ego, power, and punishment.


While reading an incredible detailed blog post about techniques for improving an image-to-ASCII renderer I stumbled upon an equally in-depth project by the same author about Icelandic declension, where noun forms change to communicate a syntactic function. The author of both, Alex Harri Jónsson, created a software package that would make it easier to properly represent the four different grammatical cases of Icelandic nouns. I had never considered the complexity of this before, but when an Icelandic person lists their personal details in a website or database, they provide only the normative version of their name. So if a website or app inserts their name into a sentence, it’s often the wrong variant, since the sentence structure determines the proper variant.

His post is a fascinating explainer for how this works grammatically, but also how he built an incredibly efficient JavaScript library to help programmers properly handle Icelandic names. This was partially possible because of Iceland’s Personal Names Register, which I’ve mentioned here before, that includes a record of all approved Icelandic names. One of the criteria that factors into approval is whether or not it can accommodate this grammatical declension.

Iceland: Week 24

I guess it’s only been a week since I returned to Iceland after my trip to the US for the holidays, but so far, every day of 2026 feels like at least a week on its own. I started my new semester at the University of Iceland on Monday, so I’ve been wrapping my head around five new classes alongside keeping up with the chaos of ICE raids in Minnesota and Trump getting aggressive about his nonsensical desire to “take” Greenland. It’s been a lot.


When I first started exploring the possibility of studying in Iceland, I was interested in the Arctic Studies micro-credential, a one-semester (30 ECTS) program. But when I went to apply I learned that micro-credentials are no longer offered to international students. My alternative was to apply for the one-year International Affairs Master’s level certificate (60 ECTS), which allowed me to structure the first semester to match exactly the Arctic Studies program. It also allowed me to stay in Iceland longer, so it seemed like a good option.

Now that I’ve completed the Arctic Studies portion of the degree, my classes this semester are less specialized. I’m optimistic that I’ll still find them interesting, but to be honest, my motivation is nowhere near as high as last semester. This overall experience has always been driven by a mix of interest in the academic program a desire to live in Iceland—the weight is now shifting to the latter. My courses this semester are: Negotiations, The Role and Policymaking of International Institutions, Governance of the Internet, Practical Statistics, and Introduction to Security Studies.

During the holiday break I found time to publish the Arctic-related papers I wrote last semester on my Looking North blog, where I’ve been writing since 2019 about landscapes and cultures of northern places. I hadn’t published anything there in a couple of years, and these latest essays are much more in-depth than what came before. I’m not sure if I’ll pick up the pace of publishing on Looking North or not, but between this blog and there it seemed like the more appropriate venue. The two essays are:

  1. Arctic Fiber Frontiers — How are subsea cable networks reshaping sovereignty and geopolitical power in the Arctic?
  2. America’s Arctic Imaginaries — What does the controversy over drilling in Alaska’s Arctic National Wildlife Refuge reveal about competing American visions of the Arctic?

Both are topics I was excited to dig into and learn more about, and I’m happy with the outcome. While written in an academic context I think they’re very accessible, so if you’re interested at all I hope you’ll check them out.


During Christmastime, Icelandic graveyards are full of candles. This is the post-holiday candleholder discard pile.
From a wrapper on some scaffolding downtown Reykjavík that highlights the history of what used to exist at that location. This is the first evidence I’ve ever seen that Iceland had a pneumatic postal service.
This was the strongest aurora I’ve seen yet, and the way it swirled around Mt. Esja was otherworldly.

Back to the chaos of Trump’s threats to the international rules-based order—I would say that people in Iceland are starting to wake up. Iceland and the US have had a co-dependent and beneficial relationship since WWII, but these belligerent statements about taking over Greenland have people worried that the same logic could be applied to Iceland. It doesn’t help that Billy Long, Trump’s nominee to be the US ambassador to Iceland, joked this week that Iceland will be the 52nd state and he’ll be governor. This led to a petition, which I signed, for the Prime Minister of Iceland to reject his ambassadorship. Long has since apologized, but only in the classic non-apologetic move of saying he was sorry, “if anyone took offense.”

Meanwhile, the stories and videos of ICE acting as an unaccountable, hateful, dehumanizing paramilitary force continue to stream out of the Twin Cities. Just as we saw in Chicago and Portland, I’m proud of the Minnesota resistance I see from afar, of people standing up for their neighbors, documenting these illegal actions, and even bringing whimsey and joy in the face of terror. Yesterday, a January 6th insurrectionist Nazi tried to inflame tensions in Minneapolis with a hateful rally downtown and protestors ran him out of the city. I find it hopeful to see that people are not backing down in the face of fascism, but I’m incredibly worried about how Trump will continue to escalate. He wants chaos; he wants to invoke the Insurrection Act. The latest I’m reading today is that they’re planning to deploy 1,500 paratroopers to Minneapolis. This is insane.

Here in Reykjavík, a group that I joined late last year called Indivisible Iceland is planning a vigil for Renee Good and all victims of ICE on Tuesday, January 20th.

Noted & Done

  • I finally had an Icelandic celebrity sighting at the pool. Ingvar Sigurdsson was leaving just as I was arriving.
  • The post-solstice daylight situation is improving rapidly. Today the sun sets at 4:29PM, only 19 minutes earlier than Chicago. I’m tired of the dark, but I’ve also been really appreciating the sunsets lately, knowing that at some point I won’t see them anymore.
  • This article in the Guardian about losing our connection the future due to the ongoing polycrisis is something I’ll be thinking about for a while. In particular, the idea that we “don’t really think about our future — we remember it…when we daydream or envision ourselves at a later point, we essentially create a memory. We then use these memories to construct our ideas about the future.”
  • Marcin Wichary compiled a fantastic list of his favorite tech museums around the world. I’ve only been to one of these (The Connections Museum in Seattle) so I’ll be referencing this list on future trips.
  • I used an eSIM from Airalo when I was in the US and it was a great experience. iPhones can support multiple active eSIMs, so it got me thinking about other use cases. For example, even if you already have an active plan, you could get an eSIM that operates on a different carrier network to act as a backup in areas of spotty coverage. I think I’ll do this the next time I’m on a long US-based roadtrip through areas with poor coverage.
  • If you use Gmail, you should know that Google has by default given its Gemini AI access to your inbox to enable “smart” features. Here are the instructions for how to turn it off.

Iceland: Week 19

This was the main study week for my Theories of International Relations exam. I did a deep dive on four theories and packed my days by re-reading and quizzing myself to try and keep all the nuances straight. I’m covering Realism, Liberalism, Marxism, and Normative IR — including all the sub-theories and critiques within each one. The overlapping terminology can be tricky, with maybe a dozen different meanings of the word “liberal,” a half dozen variations on “hegemony.” It’s maddening that the mix of authors I’m trying to keep straight include Walt, Waltz, Walzer, and Wallerstein.


Photos from Ragnar Axelsson’s current show at Qerndu gallery

I did get out to an opening at Qerndu gallery for Ragnar Axelsson’s latest photography exhibition: Human. The ten photos in the show were previously selected for the 2023 Prix Pictet photography award for global sustainability, and feature people from Greenland, Siberia, and Iceland. Ragnar’s work is primarily focused on documenting the changing Arctic, from melting glaciers to people’s lives and culture. His book Faces of the North, one of my favorites, combines candid photographs and portraits with short stories about each person. I wrote about it on my Looking North blog back in 2020. He’s one of my favorite photographers, so I was pretty excited for the chance to meet him and see his work at full scale.


Christmas Cat in downtown Reykjavík

With Christmas season approaching, the city of Reykjavík has put up some sculptures in the center of town depicting Icelandic Christmas folklore such as the Christmas Cat and Yule Lads. I’m familiar with the less-than-happy endings of most Icelandic novels and movies, so I shouldn’t be surprised — but these stories are dark! Christmas Cat lurks around the countryside and eats people who have not received new clothes to wear for Christmas Eve. Yule Lads are a gang of 13 mischievous pranksters who steal from or harass people in different ways. Their mother’s favorite food is a stew made of naughty children.

That said, the Yule Lads also seem pretty funny. They have names that translate to things like Door Slammer, Sausage Swiper, and Doorway Sniffer. My favorite — the one I would choose to play in some kind of Icelandic Christmas pagent —  is Skyr Gobbler. He just really likes Icelandic yogurt.


Finally, here are a couple of photos I took recently where the sharp angle of the sunset created interesting illusions. In the first, a focused beam of warm light hits only a sliver of Mount Esja, making it look like the lights from a town are illuminating the base of the mountain.

The second is from the University of Iceland campus, where steam from the hot river is illuminated by sunset light compressed between an opening in the buildings. Combined with the almost black-and-white, frost-covered ground it looks like an explosion.

Iceland: Week 18

It was strange and delightful for my social feeds this week to be filled with aurora from all over the United States! It seems that many of you got a better show than what I typically see in Iceland. That same solar storm showed up here too, but unfortunately not until the middle of the night, so I missed it.


This was my last week of classes for the semester and now I’m in a bit of a crunch mode as I study for two exams and write two research papers. This led me to realize how long it’s been since I took a test, which then made me feel old. I had to take the GRE for my application to Carnegie Mellon, but that was 20 years ago and my Masters in Interaction Design was entirely project and thesis-based. Which means my last time taking a test for a class was at Western Michigan in the late ’90s.

I have two exams to prepare for, both of which are formats I’ve never experienced before. My Theories of International Relations class is a 3-hour, closed book, essay-driven exam — four questions, four essays. Whereas my class on Iceland’s Foreign Policy is an oral exam, where I’ll pick a topic out of a hat and speak on it for 15 minutes. My class on Leadership in Small States had writing assignments every week, which were compiled and handed in instead of an exam.

The research papers are for my Arctic classes. Each are 5,000 words and framed around questions of my own choosing:


I shouldn’t be surprised, but this week I saw that Russ Vought has a new tactic to shutter the CFPB for good. It’s based on a bad-faith reading of the language in the Dodd-Frank Act that describes how the agency should be funded. The language in question directs the CFPB budget to come from the “combined earnings of the Federal Reserve System,” and Vought wants to interpret earnings to mean “profit” instead of “revenue.” They see this as some kind of genius move where they can redefine these terms and — proof! — CFPB has no budget and has to shut down, without Congressional approval. It’s not a new idea, they tried to kill the CFPB in 2024 with the same tactic. But back then the Bureau could fight back, whereas now it’s a self-inflicted blow by a criminal executive intent on destroying anything that actually helps people.

I know that CFPB is already effectively dead; every one of my colleagues has been fired or retired. But still, maintaining even the shell of an agency might have helped it come back to life under a new administration. Almost every week I read an article about some issue where people are hurting, that mentions how there’s nobody left to help now that the CFPB has been shuttered. Most recently it was this story in Bloomberg about zombie second mortgages, a topic that was getting a lot of scrutiny last year at CFPB.