Iceland: Week 6

This is the first week where I wasn’t sure if I’d have time to write an update. It’s 9pm on a Sunday and I’ve been doing school work for the last 12 hours. Whew! Grad school is no joke. Of course the last week has been more than just starting some classes. It’s an entirely new field, with different assumptions of pre-existing knowledge, and a structure that might be typical but differs from what I’ve experienced before. It’s been a lot, but good, and I’m sure that as things keep rolling it’ll quickly become familiar.

One small snag is that I had to swap one of my courses. My program requires either ASK105F Iceland in the International System or ASK103F Iceland‘s Foreign Relations and while I didn’t have a strong preference I chose the former because the scope seemed broader. But when the class started we found out there was a scheduling error, and its actually longer than the published timetable, which means it conflicts with one of my other classes. So I switched to ASK103F, which actually smooths out my week a bit, making my heavier 2-class days Monday/Thursday instead of Wed/Thursday.

One of the things I was curious about is whether or not I’d be an outlier in this program, given my age and background. That question was answered immediately when I met the person sitting in front of me during my first class. He’s 8 years older than me, with a background in air traffic control, and is currently a member of the Icelandic Parliament! Can you imagine a US congressperson finding themselves on a foreign affairs committee and enrolling in a graduate program to brush up on their knowledge?


The photo above is an Icelandic keyboard, and while it looks familiar the changes to accommodate Þ, Ð, Æ, Ö, and some accent marks make it impossible for me touch type with confidence. I have to use this keyboard to print from the campus computer lab because the printers won’t connect to a laptop. Entering my username and password for the first took a few minutes. The @ symbol that is paired with the Q requires pressing the AltGr button to the right of the spacebar. And when my fingers reach for the left shift key they naturally land on the combined less-than/greater-than key, providing a nice row of >>>>>>>>>>s in the middle of your password. Some of these shifts are subtle enough to make you question your sanity, like pairing & with the number 6 instead of 7.

A visual comparison of the differences between the US and Icelandic keyboards.

Yesterday was an hugely packed day in Reykjavík. In the morning was the marathon, and all the additional races of various lesser lengths, snaking their way through the city. By noon, events had kicked off for Culture Night, with over 400 events across the city from free museums openings, to craft markets, to live music everywhere. I had a loose schedule of things I wanted to see, but also just wandered around, stumbling into strange and delightful happenings.

Perhaps the most low-key event is Waffles and Coffee, a two-hour period where the city supplies the ingredients and materials to the host and people open up their homes to serve the eponymous items. It fosters these casual gatherings throughout the neighborhood — strangers and friends in backyards and living rooms, sharing a snack.

A Waffles and Coffee sign, welcoming people to come inside
Marathon runnings in front of Esja
The 3K fun-run had a bubble machine near the end
Battle of the Bands at Harpa
A sizable portion of the country gathered for a concert on the hill

Noted & Done

  • Had dinner with an old friend and her family before they headed out to explore Iceland on their vacation, which was really nice.
  • Went to the National Library for the first time, which will be a good place to study.
  • Saw Desperate Mortal at Space Odyssey.
  • Saw Frítt Fall at Nordic House.
  • Went to the Friday Open Lab at the Intelligent Instruments Lab.
  • Iceland stopped sending packages worth over $100 to the USA, along with many other countries, due to lack of clarity around import rules.
  • <rant>You know how every elevator in the USA has a “close door” button but it never does anything when you press it. Apparently this placebo button is meant to comply with the Americans With Disabilities Act, although I question that explanation since the timing of the door automatically closing is what would matter for someone with a cane or a wheelchair. Is it because Americans are so insensitive they would close the door manually in someone’s face? Also, why have a fake button — just leave it out, or put in a blank! </rant> Annnnnnyway, the elevator in my apartment here has a functioning “close door” button and it is glorious! I press my floor number, and then the close button, and I’m off.

Iceland: Week 5

After three weeks of various adventures to the countryside my step count was considerably more modest this week. I got my first haircut in Iceland, which might just complete the checklist of day-to-day life things to figure out, and I was out and about in Reykjavík, but not too far afield. I’m really glad I was able to move here with this five-week buffer before the start of the semester. I’ve seen amazing landscapes, I’m familiar with the city, and now I’m ready to start my grad program.

As a reminder, I’m enrolled in a 1-year graduate program in International Affairs, focusing on the Arctic. That focus shaped my course selection, and I’ve mapped my first semester to largely overlap the shorter micro-credential in Arctic Studies. One consequence of that is that I needed to overload: I’m currently registered for 40 ECTS instead of the typical 30. I can re-evaluate that within the first couple of weeks, but since some of the courses are mandatory I’d have to drop the ones I’m most interested in, so I’m inclined to try and make it work.

If you’re from the US, you might be scratching your head about “ECTS,” like I was when I first started looking at this program. The European Credit Transfer and Accumulation System is a standard across academia in Europe, and they’re calculated a bit differently than the US “credit” system. One ECTS is supposed to equal 25–30 hours of student workload (per semester), counting time both inside and outside the classroom. Whereas in the US, each credit maps to an hour spent in class. Most back of the envelope conversions I’ve seen claim that 2 ECTS is roughly equal to 1 US credit, but ¯\_(ツ)_/¯ — seems fuzzy.

Anyway, here’s what I’m planning to take this semester:

One note is that The Arctic Circle is sort of a mini-course centered around the Arctic Circle Assembly, held in Reykjavík October 16–18. This is the main international forum for the Arctic Council, which I would be attending anyway. I’m viewing this less as a extra course and more as a way to ensure that I get the most out of the conference. Aside from that anomaly, the other six classes meet once a week for anywhere between 1.5 and 3 hours. I have classes on campus every weekday except Tuesday.

I had a moment this week when I realized I really needed to figure out an organizational system to manage all the readings I’ll be doing. I felt much better after I remembered and reinstalled Zotero, a free and open-source application which lets you organize documents, associate them with notes, and manage citations. It converts PDF highlights, syncs everything between Mac and iOS, integrates with Google Docs, and keeps track of your spot in a PDF when you switch devices. I feel dumb for not using this when I wrote my book.

If you have suggestions for other tools to help me manage my research, writing, schedule, or all-the-other-things, please send them my way. The last time I started a graduate program was 20 years ago, I’m sure things have changed a little bit.


For the last decade, by shear coincidence, I’ve lived in very close walking distance to a movie theatre. In Pittsburgh the Row House Cinema was less than a block down the hill, in Minneapolis I could walk to the Edina 4 in 10 minutes, and now in Reykjavík I find myself living half a block from Bíó Paradís. What makes this latest cinema situation so great is that I’m a big fan of Icelandic films, but normally have to wait for years after their release to see them, scrounging for access in the dark corners of the Internet or subscribing to niche streaming services. But this week, given my newfound proximity and geography, I saw two recent releases that thankfully aired with English subtitles.

The first was When The Light Breaks (trailer), directed by Rúnar Rúnarsson, which came out last year. It centers on a small group of friends, two intertwined relationships, and an unexpected tragedy. It’s shot entirely in Reykjavík, much of it at the Iceland University of the Arts and Harpa, so it was fun to recognize the locations throughout.

The second film was The Love That Remains (IMDB), written and directed by Hlynur Pálmason, which was actually its Icelandic debut after premiering at Cannes in May. This is the fourth film I’ve seen by this director, and it was interesting how he incorporated a similar technique used in the 2022 short Nest to convey the passage of time. Like that film, there are shots where the camera captures an outdoor scene from a fixed point-of-view, and flashes between drastically different weather conditions that the Icelandic countryside so easily provides. Both films take place over a year, and these temporal jump cuts are interspersed with slowly unfolding scenes of everyday family and work life. He has a beautiful, simple, quiet storytelling style that showcases the story’s environments, both manmade and natural, alongside his characters’ complex relationships. There were also some metaphorical/supernatural elements, which I’m less sure about, but overall I thought it was great.

At Cannes, The Love That Remains won an award that I didn’t know existed but that I’ll be tracking from now on — The Palme Dog! More specifically this award goes to Panda, an Icelandic Sheepdog that steals scenes throughout the film. The best part is that Panda isn’t a trained actor, but the director’s longtime pet, probably not sure exactly what a film is, but always happy to be involved.

I created a list on Letterboxd to keep track of Icelandic films that I’ve both seen, and want to watch. Let me know if you have any recommendations that I haven’t added yet.


Noted & Done

  • Got my first haircut in Iceland, by a Greenlandic barber. I apologized on behalf of the US, although he was convinced that nothing would come of Trump’s rhetoric of making Greenland part of America. He actually thought the attention that Greenland’s been getting could have positive outcomes. I hope he’s right.
  • Realized that my electric tea kettle here boils water noticeably faster than in the US. because it can pull more watts from the higher-voltage supply. Relatedly, I also realized that I need to buy a new induction charger for my electric toothbrush because my US version is only rated up to 130V. It hasn’t caught on fire yet, but I really don’t like using the word yet in the same sentence as fire.
  • Saw Autechre perform at Harpa, in complete darkness. Honestly, the darkness and the unrelenting aural assault that is their live show was a bit overwhelming and claustrophobic. I think that a seated venue would have made it easier to take in.
  • Saw GRÓA play at Smekkleysa.
  • Went to RVK Poetics at Mengi, a recurring reading event. Over half were in English, so worth checking out again.
  • Went to an event at Hönnunarsafn Íslands, the Museum of Design and Applied Art. Small but interesting collection of Icelandic designs across a variety of mediums.
  • Went to the Nauthólsvík Geothermal Beach, which I learned is not one of the places my pool pass works, but cold plunging in the ocean is fun.
  • Did my first “vibe coding” with ChatGPT to create a script that scrapes concerts from Setlist.is and creates an iCal file I can subscribe to in Google Calendar. It works, took less than an hour total, and I wrote zero lines of codes.
  • Finished the book The Arctic: What Everyone Needs to Know (full PDF).